Samogitia National Park

In 1960–1962 the Soviet army built the Soviet Union’s first underground ballistic-missile launch base in the Plokštinė forest by Lake Plateliai. Some 10,000 soldier-builders dug the 27-metre shafts by hand, with shovels, “like wells”. From 1963 to 1978 four R-12 missiles with thermonuclear warheads stood here, aimed at cities in Western Europe. The targets were changed every few years, but no missile was ever launched. The troops left on 18 June 1978, a Pioneer camp moved in, and the museum opened to visitors in 2012.

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Underground you follow a corridor with a white line on the floor, see the restored control room, the commander’s office and the communications node, and look down into a real missile silo. The Cold War exhibition, the missile models and a nuclear-blast simulation in the former store leave an impression even on teenagers who don’t like museums. Half a kilometre away stands the former military town: about ten buildings can be seen from outside, and information boards and a 3D model of the town were added in 2025.

This strange and beautiful garden was created by the self-taught stone carver Vilius Orvidas (1952–1992), the third generation of a family of stonemasons. In 1973, back from the army, he and his father began hauling home boulders that were due to be blasted during Soviet land drainage. He did the same with century-old trees, stumps and old farm tools from demolished homesteads. Out of them grew religious and artistic compositions that the Soviet authorities disliked. In 1989 Vilius became a Franciscan, Brother Gabriel, and in 1992 he died suddenly while working at the homestead.

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Paths lead between stones, wooden sculptures and old objects, “including even a tank”. Visitors are invited to ring the big bell themselves. Climbing on the stones and wooden structures is not allowed, and children need watching. There is no café, so bring snacks for a longer visit.

Lake Plateliai is the largest and deepest lake in Samogitia: about 1,200 ha and almost 50 m deep, with seven islands. Legend says a huge black cloud hung over the meadows for three days until an old woman cried out “Kāp platē lėij!” (“How widely it rains!”), and the cloud fell and became the lake. In the 15th century a ducal castle stood on Castle Island, joined to the Šventorkalnis peninsula by a wooden bridge almost 300 m long.

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From the late 18th century until 1940 Plateliai Manor belonged to the French counts de Choiseul-Gouffier. The wooden palace burned down in 1943, but the stables, granary and threshing barn survive. The Shrovetide museum in the stables holds more than 300 masks: Plateliai was famous for its Užgavėnės even in Soviet times, when the festival was banned. In the manor park grows the Witch’s Ash, Lithuania’s thickest ash tree, 7.56 m round.

• On Mondays the Orvidai Homestead, the Plateliai Manor exhibitions and the visitor centre are closed. The Cold War Museum is open every day, so build the day around it and a walk by the lake, for example the 4 km Šeirė nature trail.
• December–February the Orvidai Homestead is closed. Drive straight to the Cold War Museum, then on to Plateliai (Tuesday–Saturday).
• On Sundays outside summer the Plateliai Manor exhibitions and the visitor centre are closed.
• In early July the Great Feast of Žemaičių Kalvarija takes place (1–12 July in 2026). It is a remarkable experience, but traffic through the town is slow and parking is scarce.

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A day like this cannot be done by public transport: buses from Plungė to Plateliai run only in the early morning and evening, and none go to the Cold War Museum.

Preschool children get into the Cold War Museum free, but children must stay with an adult and pushchairs are not allowed underground. The underground part is not adapted for people with reduced mobility: they can visit the visitor centre and the outdoor exhibition. From October to April the museum runs programmes by age group, for example the escape game “Operation SS4 Sandal” for ages 16 and over; these need to be booked in advance.